White Hair Coverage 007
- education9661
- Jun 23
- 5 min read
Hey Gorgies!
Have you ever thought of white hair coverage as the ultimate villain in a James Bond film?
It's always lurking in the shadows, waiting to take centre stage!
Well…guess what, it doesn’t have to…as you have not 1, but 7 ‘secret agents’ within Calura Permanent to combat your every mission against white hair!
Oligo’s 7 White hair coverage series weren’t created equal in shade value, allowing us to provide our clients with the exact finish they want and need.
Let’s get into it!
A balanced mixture of cool and warm tones due to an equal mix of all 3 primary shades (the Blue in the Neutrals is a light blue).
Perfect for: The regular client who’s been coming in every 5-6 weeks for as long as you can remember! It’s giving 100% coverage with Medium Luminosity.
Good to Know: We don’t use heat with Oligo, but a plastic cap can be used while processing if needed. Neutrals and Intense Neutrals can be intermixed if you want to create somewhere in the middle of the 2 options, or when a slightly cooler tone is required.
Specially formulated for difficult white hair coverage. The Blue is darker than the blue in the neutral series, resulting in a cooler and deeper coverage, about 1 level darker than neutral.
Perfect for: The client who comes in every 3-4 weeks and actually wants the colour to appear like it's grown from inside their scalp…It’s giving high saturation and reflects the least light.
Good to Know: For coarse or resistant white hair, use 9%/30 vol and process for a minimum of 45 minutes…worried about hot roots??! Intense Neutral or 18/AB with 30vol is your best friend for coarse, resistant textured hair!
A Cooler Brown option with a predominant green/brown tonality. Balances red underlying pigments for a cool to neutral result. A favourite for lowlights…If in doubt…GAB it out!
Perfect for: The client who comes in every 6-8 weeks or so, they want full coverage but more of a tailored combination of tones to tackle warmth and still reflect light.
Good to Know: Fashion shades do not cover white hair and must be mixed with a shade of a similar level from any of the 6 white hair coverage series shown. If you wanted the GAB to have more intensity, bear this in mind when adding a Fashion shade!
Ash Brown is the coolest series that offers 100% white coverage. The -18 is less luminous than the neutrals because of the heavy blue hue.
Perfect for: The client who doesn’t want to see any warmth when their hair is first coloured, right through to their next appointment.
Good to know: 6% / 20 volume is our standard white coverage developer
Brown warm toffee tones you'll fall in love with!
Perfect for: The client who wants a rich brunette without excess warmth, we’re talking natural in appearance and medium luminosity!
Good to Know: Luminosity and saturation do not refer to coverage! The 7 white hair coverage series offer 100% coverage; it just refers to how much light reflects from the colour! Low luminosity will give a deeper, saturated result. Higher luminosity will reflect more light!
Golden Copper offers warm brown shades with a predominant yellow/orange tonality. -34/GK has the highest luminosity, so it reflects the most light. Copper white hair coverage?! Yes please!
Perfect for: The client who wants a warm, light reflecting result as if it’s always been their own natural hair colour!
Good to Know: The minimum processing time for all our white hair coverage series is 30-45 minutes (30 minutes works great on fine hair!)
Recommended 100 % white coverage series that can be intermixed with warm fashion shades:
Neutral
8/B Brown
34/GK Gold Copper
Recommended 100% white hair coverage series that can be intermixed with cool fashion shades:
Intense Neutral
318/GAB Cool Brown
18/AB Ash Brown
Ok…Are you still with me?!
The 6 options above are recommended for Levels 8 and lower…I’ll cover the last option, which will answer why in a second!
Remember:
The 6 white hair coverage series above can be intermixed to create bespoke formulas!
The prime alkalinity and Exothermic gentle increase in temperature happen when mixed during the first 15 minutes, whilst it may be helpful to formulate your colour before application or even before your client's arrival if that’s your thing…don’t pre-mix before your client is in the chair and gowned up!
Ready for our final secret agent??!
Secret Agent 7 may be left until last, but it’s mighty and it has a wingman!
8 Ultra Series gives you lighter & more luminous white hair coverage from 30% to 100% white hair, and with 4 shades to choose from, anti-breakage technology and Blonding Cream as a wingman, it’s a hard series not to fall for!
Best used with 30vol & 40vol and processed for 40-45 minutes (unless used on lighter levels, such as level 8 fine hair, opt for 20vol!)
Plus, they can be intermixed together and with ALL Calura Permanent shades (except the 12 Pure Blonde Series)
+ Blonding Cream
Want to achieve a level 9 on levels 6 and lighter??? Add Blonding Cream! This gives you 1 more level of lift and you can use up to 25% in your formula.
Perfect for: The client who wants a natural-looking medium blonde tone, either keeping it neutral or opting for a cooler, warmer or more beige option. When adding Blonding Cream, it’s perfect for clients who want more of a lighter level 9!
Good to Know:
Never use Blonding Cream alone; it contains no pigments, so if warmth is exposed, you can add 0-16 or 0-AV mix tone to neutralise further.
Recommendations when Formulating for White Hair Coverage:
The recommended mixing proportions for white coverage are:
25% white hair = 75% fashion shade + 25% white hair coverage shade
50% white hair or more = 50% fashion shade + 50% white hair coverage shade
Recommended for up to 25% white hair coverage:
-31/GA Cool Beige
-11/AA Intense Ash
-13/AG Matte
The 25% white cover shades can be used as cool additives when necessary.
Example: Neutrals + -31 or -11 = better for managing unwanted warmth
Now I know this is A LOT of information, but white hair coverage can be so complex from client to client, so having these options gives you the chance to feel like you’re totally in control!
Keep an eye out for the next blog coming soon…
Lots of Love
The Oligo UK Education Team x
